Always time for Gruner!

What’s the best way to learn all about a grape? Why not invite your friends over and tell them each to bring one wine of that varietal. I have been hearing about Gruner’s popularity these days and felt it was high time that I tried them for myself. The premise was simple: 4 friends, 4 Gruners, dissect.

The first wine that came out of the woodworks was the 2010 Laurenz V Friendly Gruner Veltliner. This is the perfect starting point for a Gruner rookie! Light gold in colour with a rich fruit nose reminiscent of a ripe Riesling. The wine opened up in the glass and mandarin became the dominant flavour on the nose. The wine had strong acidity, a round mouth feel, ripe lemon and lime flavours, with a stony, mineral, light spice finish. The wine tasted like an alcohol soaked mandarin. While it was originally not served cold enough, the wine did open up to show the most fruit forward expression of Gruner on the night.

The second wine was the only entry of the night not from Austria, this being the 2010 Forrest Doctors Gruner Veltliner. This offering from New Zealand was a pale lemon colour with a lime sorbet nose with a quick whiff of petrol that quickly dissipated. On the pallet this wine was far more mineral, had the highest acidity of the bunch with sharp citrus flavours and a white pepper finish. The memory of this wine lasted a bit longer than the first and the sharp citrus flavours were balanced with a noticeable sweetness; this wine had the highest residual sugar of the group (8.7g/l). Cool to see this grape from another region that is just started to explore with Gruner.

The third wine was the 2010 Domaene Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner. Rich gold in the glass with a noticeable peach and ripe apple nose, this wine was the most textured, think oily mouth, of the group with orange and peach flavours topped off with the familiar white pepper. There was a light floral component to this wine. This was the only wine of the bunch that I had tasted before and I felt that while it had the simplest fruit profile, there was a richness to it that makes it a beautiful wine.

Lastly, we dove into the 2007 Loimer Gruner Veltliner. This wine was the most expensive of the group and definitely delivered on it’s expectations. It was light gold in colour with an intense caramelized green apple nose underlain with rubber. There was some residual sugar, but it was beautifully balanced with high acidity and a peach, mango sorbet pallet. The finish had pepper that was white-borderline-black pepper – grey pepper as I have dubbed it! The depth of flavour was the defining factor for this wine. The best comment was that this wine knows exactly what it is and gives us exactly that.

After our mouths were tingling from all the whites, we do what every Austrian apparently does, turn straight to the only Austrian red we can easily find in this market, Zweigelt. The 2009 Domaene Gobelsburg Zweigelt was a medium ruby colour and showing a meaty, coffee, wet lanolin nose with a hit of black pepper. The pallet showed marginal tannins on a medium body, light red fruit, and a sharp finish. I felt like I was drinking bitter coffee out of a tin cup. We decided we would enjoy this wine with a cigar and let the sun set behind the swirls of our smoke.

Our goal of finding a way to define Gruner Veltliner as a grape was enjoyable. Gruner did prove itself worthy to be drunk at my table! The richness, ripe flavours, a shake of white pepper, and high but balanced acidity defines this grape for me. I can see why so many people feel like this is the perfect wine to pair with spicy Asian cuisine or sushi. It would be an excellent compliment to a white fish or light pork dish as well. Next time you are in the mood for a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc with a twist, I urge you to turn towards Gruner!

MOT’s Mandatory Magnum Monday

Men of Terroir quite literally had their hands full with the latest outing dubbed “Mandatory Magnum Monday”. Kindly hosted by a fan of MOT’s, this event featured 3 entries for enthusiasts to behold in the quest to “go big or go home”.

The evening kicked off in grand style featuring the classic Brut Souverain from legendary French Champagne producer Henriot. Founded in 1808 by Apolline Henriot, the House of Henriot has remarkably been passed from generation to generation, making it one of the last independant and family-owned Champagne Houses. The Brut Souverain is comprised of up to 20 percent of the house’s reserve wine each year, with more than 25 cru’s being selected from. A beautiful example of what excellent champagne should be, with the heritage to back it up.

From the personal cellar of an MOT founder came one of the big players on the circuit of BC wines, the 2008 Painted Rock Icon. A blend of 30% Merlot, 25% Malbec, 25% Cab Franc, and 20% Petite Verdot, it had a rich, complex nose of dark cherry, chocolate, vanilla, and plum. The palate seemed tight as grippy tannins held firm through to the finish, a bit of an unexpected change from the voluptuous layers on the nose. Overall, one of BC’s better red wines, and quickly becoming noticed in the wine world. This 60 acre property sits on eastern-facing bench above Skaha Lake in Penticton, revealing great potential terroir.

The expectations were high for our next magnum, and it did keep us waiting as one MOT member seemed handcuffed while trying to release The Prisoner from Orin Swift Cellars. This 2010 offering was primarily zinfandel with some additions of cab, syrah, petite sirah, charbono, and grenache to make it an unusual blend! The unmistakeable fruity zinfandel qualities shone through on the nose accompanied by sweet vanilla oak spice, while on the palate it seemed basically straight-forward as zinfandel dominant wines can sometimes be. It would have shown better accompanied by some barbecued meats, a sunny patio, and a game of twister perhaps!

Mandatory Magnum Monday ended well with happy event-goers fulfilled and ready for the next MOT event to be announced. Stay tuned for more snapshots of MOT’s next epic outing…

Australian Regional Tasting

Men of Terroir was on hand once again for the Taste of Australia tasting on May 11, 2012 at the Harrison Art Galleries in Yaletown. The art gallery was set up to showcase the different regional diversity of the wineries. This led to a little bit of confusion for certain wineries that are spread out between different areas, but overall it was a well-organized event and we thought it was the perfect way to start the weekend!

Our tasting experience started off with a bang as we began in the McLaren Vale with Wirra Wirra Wines. The Dead Ringer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon was a huge, powerful wine, black olives and dark fruit underlain with classic McLaren Vale minty notes. We had to have a nondescript Pinot Grigio just to cleanse our palate for the next wines!

The next standout was in the Barossa Valley region when we tried the Langmeil Valley Floor Shiraz. A perennial favourite, the 2009 did not cease to impress. This is classic Barossa Valley fruit with an earthy edge. One of the only other wines that could live up to this is the Barossa Valley Estates 2005 Black Pepper Shiraz. We felt sorry for the next couple of wines as the Black Pepper seemed to be selfishly hogging all our taste buds.

When we could finally taste again, the Coonawarra stepped up to the plate. Both Bill Hardy and Ian Hollick were standing at a table together arguing about Aussie Rules Football as only two Aussies can. Good thing we managed to dance around the issue about our favourite teams by discussing Canadian border issues with Ian. The 2008 Hollick Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon may have taken a while to get into the country, but it sure didn’t last that long in our glass! The Majella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon was another Coonawarra standout, a bit richer on the palate than the Ravenswood and drinking perfectly now.

One Pinot Noir stood heads and shoulders above all the rest. That was the 2006 offering from Yabby Lake Vineyards in the Mornington Peninsula. Talk about an intense Pinot! It had enough grip to it that one of us double-checked to make sure that we were not being had and that it truly was a Pinot Noir we were drinking. Loved it!

It wasn’t all teeth staining reds however. The Tahbilk 2010 Marsanne from the Ngambie Lakes region of Victoria impressed. The rich, textured mouth feel and the healthy acidity was screaming for food. This is the perfect wine for Vancouver’s West Coast Asian inspired cuisines. Over in Margaret River it was the region’s original winery, Vasse Felix, that left us smiling with their 2009 Heytesbury Chardonnay. This wine showcased the perfect balance between oak and acidity that Margaret River does so well.

Small Vineyards, Something Worth Watching #WW

The MOT were lucky enough to recently get a first hand look at the small vineyards portfolio and also a little more about what makes the company tick. One of the founders, Tom Kelley, explained that the company came about because he and a few friends loved getting lost in the vineyards of Italy so much, that they decided to try and make a business out of it; however, listening to him talk about it, its hard not to notice the passion and excitement he has for authentic wine, especially Italian wine. Tom made a point of saying that their aim is to help preserve to old world of wine and its ways, hence, SMALL VINEYARDS.

Small vineyards is all about exactly that, wines produced from small vineyards. Each producer they import, must be in the smallest 10% of their given region, pick their grapes by hand, and use sustainable growing techniques. All of this comes through when tasting the wines. The quality and technique are unmistakable.

Here are some of their wines that we tasted. All wines were tasted with food as is intended by the winemaker.

N.V Trevisiol Prosecco Extra Dry

100% Prosseco

Light floral and fruity aromas are the hall-mark of the dry prosecco. A touch of honeysuckle on the palate accompanied with the obvious minerality make this one of my favourite Proseccos . This can be paired with a variety of foods however I think some simple prawns would suit perfectly.

2009 Giuseppe Lonardi Valpolicella Classico D.O.C

75% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara

This has all the classical notes of a traditional Valpolicella. Cherry spice, tobacco nose with a leathery, dusty palate. A little bitter on the finish. Great for most pastas.

2010 Fattoria Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti D.O.C.G

85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia Nera

The Poggio Vignoso Chinati is the ultimate food wine. This is once again a very traditional style with loads of dried cherry, spice and some herbal notes. I enjoyed my glass with some blue cheese. Yep!!

2009 La Quercia Montepulciano D.O.C

100% Montepulciano

This 100% organic beauty is a real star of the line up. Smoky notes overlay dark fruit and spice. The La Quericia Montepluciano is a good dose of restrained power. Any grilled meats would pair well with this lush Montepulciano.

2010 Perazzeta Sara Rosso Toscano I.G.T

The Sara Rosso Toscano is the little sister of the bigger Rita. Like the Rita, the Sara is mainly Sangiovese with just 10% Ciliegiolo . Very powerful and flavourful with layered ripe dark fruits and spicy earth tones. Crisp acidity rounds this tuscan out beautifully.

2008 Palama Arcangelo Primitivo

100% Primitivo

A super low-yield Primitivo, the Palama Arcangelo is a classical edition. All of the salty, gamey notes are there along with ripe fruit and an olive finish. Concrete fermentation ensures the fruit is the star of this wine.

2007 Giuseppe Lonardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C.

75% Corvina, 20% Molinara, 5% Rondinella

WOW!! A powerhouse. This is monster is everything you want from an Amarone and more. Rich, lush fruit is the backbone of this intense, complex wine. Truffle, tobacco. leather, chocolate fill the glass and that is only the beginning. Still in its infancy, words do not do this one justice.

The Lifford Grand Tasting

Seems to be wine tasting season! Yesterday MOT attended the Lifford Grand Tasting hosted by the Lifford Wine Agency held at the beautiful Stanley Park Pavilion. 6 countries, over 20 wineries, and a collection of liqueurs and spirits were available for tasting.

Right off the bad, MOT was put into the wine tasting spirit with the perfectly weighted Ca’Del Bosco Cuvee Prestige Brut Franciacorta. This sparkling has just the right balance of body and citrus flavours to liven the palate and get us ready for the whites. The selection of whites was on the minimal side, but the favourite today was a stellar value wine, the 2010 Arboleda Chardonnay from Chile.

Moving onto the reds, the country that showed the best overall was Italy. The Rocca Delle Macie and Tenuta Il Poggione wines were excellent throughout their entire lineups, but it was the unheralded DOCG of Gattinara that captured our attention today. Travaglini is a small winery that makes 100% Nebbiolo wines that are slightly more delicate than wines from the neighbouring Barolo, but these wines still pack a punch. The 2001 Gattinara Riserva was so light in the glass that it was almost inconceivable 5 minutes later that we still tasted the finish. The other wine that never stopped was the 2008 Serpico from Mitolo. A Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale that is produced in a style reminiscent to Amarone, using dried grapes to create a concentrated wine with layers of depth.

After we exhausted our wine palates, we grazed and stared down the whiskeys. Always a fan of the peaty Islay offerings, we were shocked when Bowmore said we had to have their 12 yr old with an oyster. We obliged and were amazed at how well the saltiness of the oyster danced alongside the smoky peaty offering from the whiskey. Nothing could prepare us for the joy of the Bowmore 15 yr old Darkest though. Caramelized peat is the best way to express the flavour profile. As it slowly dissipated on an extremely smooth finish we walked out the door with a smile on our face.

Sonoma Spotlight Blind Pinot Noir Tasting

Before the California Wine Fair in Vancouver on April 18, I was invited to take part in a Sonoma Spotlight blind tasting of 8 different Pinot Noirs. I have never done a blind tasting of this many wines in a similar category before and was blown away by how unique each of the wines ended up being. Every Pinot Noir, except for one, was from the 2009 vintage that was known being an outstanding vintage and having an intensity of colour in the grapes.

All wines were tasted blind before the big reveal and discussion afterwards. We were also given an in depth description of the Sonoma region beforehand, fuelling my already burning desire to visit this wonderful part of the wine world!

I have included all my notes of the wines below, in the order the tasting occurred. I attempted to highlight the distinct differences between each of these high quality wines. Hope you get as much out of it as I did!

1. Flowers Vineyard and Winery 2009 Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir

Appearance: Med – intensity, ruby red
Nose: Med intensity, cranberries, cherries, bit of smoke, cinnamon, tea, cedar
Palate: Tangy acidity, sweet fruit, licorice but underlain with earth, light body, low tannin
Notes: subtleness, elegance and finesse, ethereal, food friendly

2. Joseph Swan Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir, Saralee’s Vineyard

Appearance: Med – intensity, ruby red
Nose: Med intensity, strawberries and cherries, jammy, floral, orange peel
Palate: Med smooth acidity, med + alcohol, med – tannin, full of strawberries, savoury spice, and vanilla
Notes: Drinking right now

3. Freeman Winery 2009 Pinot Noir, Keefer Ranch Vineyard

Appearance: Med to Med + intensity, ruby red
Nose: Med + intensity, strawberries, tangerine, ginger, clove, sarsaparilla
Palate: Med acidity, tart, linear taste, low tannin, orange, red fruit
Notes: Nose opened up to smell just like Coca Cola! Palate doesn’t live up to the nose

4. Patz & Hall 2009 Pinot Noir, Chenoweth Ranch Vineyard

Appearance: Deep purple
Nose: Med + intensity, dark rich cherry, coffee, molasses, faint dark chocolate, vanilla
Palate: Med + sharp acidity, med tannin, med body, chocolate, rich, very balanced with tart red fruit, cherry, strong finish
Notes: Dark and different, almost not Pinot Noir, good and interesting

5. Sequana 2009 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir

Appearance: Med + intensity, ruby red
Nose: Pronounced, dark, soy, barnyard, burnt toast, strong chocolate/coffee
Palate: Med + acidity, med – tannin, med body, smooth cherry, black pepper, earthy, chocolate, mocha, some mint, higher alcohol
Notes: Different style from others, in-between Burgundy and California, mid palate freshness, wine in awkward teenage stage!

6. Kosta Browne 2009 Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir

Appearance: Deep ruby red to purple rim
Nose: Med + intensity, cranberry, orange peel, cranberry/raspberry jam, Christmas spices
Palate: High acid, med + body, med – tannin, similar to nose but more vanilla
Notes: Smooth and richer than others, good

7. Hartford Court 2009 Land’s Edge Pinot Noir

Appearance: Med + intensity, ruby red, pronounced legs
Nose: Med intensity, more floral than others, earth, all spice, reserved nose
Palate: High acid, med body, med – tannin, truffle, mushrooms, rich tart cherry, slightly confectionary
Notes: Didn’t stand out for me, nice but nothing grabbing me

8. Siduri Wines 2010 Pinot Noir, Keefer Ranch Vineyard

Appearance: Deep ruby red, pronounced legs
Nose: Med intensity, red fruit with mix of spice and earth, prune, soy, floral
Palate: Med + acid, med + body, med tannin, sweet rich red fruit, fullest body, light spice, barnyard
Notes: Smells most like Pinot out of lineup for me, wine to drink by itself, very good

After we finished I leisurely wandered in a daze around the California Wine Fair, tasting wines here and there, but not fully able to shake my thoughts of the amazing Pinot Noir tasting that occurred only minutes before. While my palate and wallet are having a domestic dispute about purchasing some of these great Sonoma Pinot Noirs, my mind is smartly planning my trip down to explore the distinct sub regions in more depth.

2006 BenMarco Expresivo

Terroir: Mendoza, Argentina

60% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Syrah, 10% Tannat

The Technical: Last night’s wine was the 2006 BenMarco Expresivo that has been sitting in my cellar for a couple of years. This wine, with an inky ruby red colour, began with a little barnyard funk on the nose that blew away quickly to reveal a rich nose full or plum, black pepper, oregano, mushrooms, and oak. The big body had silky tannins softened by age that begins with Malbec flavours and leads to a Cabernet Sauvignon finish. Juicy blackberries, plums, and tobacco box complement the lively palate. As an ’06 it surprised me how fresh this wine still is. Definitely still has 2-3 years more life on it.

Why You Should Drink This Wine: Drink this wine if you are tired of drinking straight Malbecs. The Cab Sauv, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Tannat in the Expressivo pairs well with the Malbec adding structure, depth, and different flavor components.

Rated 92 points Wine Spectator

1986 Chateau Latour, Grand Vin, Pauillac

4/3/2012

Terroir: Pauillac, Bordeaux

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 1% Petite Verdot

Technical: This was more of an experience than a tasting. Having never had this wine before I was surprised by its restrained nature. The nose was full of leather and earthy tones but that was only the beginning. It continued to change in the decanter. Hints of herb and were pepper always present. The first sip is initially subdued on this medium bodied red. Cassis and dry herb dominated however after a few hours in the decanter concentrated tastes of earthiness, tobacco, leather, and even a hint of walnut came through. Complexity and length shone. The tannins have started to drop away and I was happy with my decision to drink it now.

Having heard a lot about powerful Latour’s in the past I can comfortably say this is not one of those. However its was thoroughly enjoyable.

Why should I drink this wine? As I said earlier, drinking a Chateau Latour, Grand Vin is an experience. When you pull the cork, you are pulling the cork on hundreds of years of history and experience. There is nothing around quite like a first growth, grand cru bordeaux. The price is a little high so maybe share it with a few other oenophiles.

Castello Di Bossi 2007 Chianti Classico

Terroir: Chianti Classico from the Tuscany region of Italy

The Technical: This wine’s appearance shows a ruby red core turning to garnet towards the rim. The intense nose is full of red liquorice, leather, cigar box, dark cherry, and light floral notes. On the dry palate, there is a healthy dose of acidity to back up the medium tannins. The body has dried fruits, sweet spices like vanilla, cocoa, and leather. There is the traditional bitterness of Chianti but it is not as strong as in some. This is a very good quality Chianti Classico.

Why Should You Drink This Wine: This wine is the perfect compliment to a tomato based pasta dish or a veal marsala dish. If you are used to drinking regular Chianti and want to explore more, try this wine from the Chianti Classico region that truly is a step up. 2007 is the best year that Chianti has had in the 00′s so grab whatever you can see before it is too late!

Greywacke 2009 Wild Sauvignon

The Technical: From former Cloudy Bay winemaker Kevin Judd comes out with one of the most unique Sauvignon Blancs I have ever tasted. Don’t let the light, lemon colour fool you, this wine has quite the flavour profile. The young nose shows great fresh mango and asparagus underlaid with a flinty mineral note, a creaminess from malolactic fermentation, and a toastiness from the lees contact. The dry palate keeps changing as time passes, starting with fig and kumquat and turning into tropical pineapple and classic citrus and herbaceous Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc notes. The extremely long finish shows great peach and a little spice and oak.

This wine is a beautiful wine lover’s wine! The flavours seem to be very conflicting (both tropical fruit and fresh citrus fruit) but the wine plays it just right and the contrasting flavours is balanced perfectly with a refreshing acidity and light oak and lees contact.

Why Should I Drink This Wine? Drink this wine when you are in the mood for trying a unique twist on the refreshing New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc’s you have become accustomed to. Will pair well with a mango, chicken salad or lightly charred fish dishes.

Not one to rest on his laurels, Kevin Judd always had aspirations of starting his own winery after the success of Cloudy Bay and in 2009 started Greywacke. After trying this wine this week I am going to be seeking out all of his wines when going to the New Zealand section of a wine shop! For more information on the winery visit the website here.

February Wine Reviews

Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2010 $30Cdn

Very expressive gooseberry and citrus nose. Wonderful acidity, nice and fresh on the palate with a long finish. This is a super attractive style and a well balanced wine. A great patio sipper and highly recommended if you’re a sauvignon blanc fan.

Bodega Catena Zapata Alta Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina 2008 $40Cdn

This chardonnay is an oaked, cool climate style, very clean and not overly outward on the nose. The delicate style transforms on the palate to a balanced, mouth filling and complex array of apple, ripe pear and toasted notes. Classy, old world meets new world style, and highly recommended.

Domaine Zind Humbrecht Clos Hauserer Riesling, Alsace , France 2005 $85Cdn

Thank you Erica P. for the heads-up on this beauty! A perfect vintage from a reputable producer means a stunning wine that was one of the highlights of this tasting. Noticeably golden appearance, beautiful and rich aromas of apricot, lime zest, and peach. Talk about lengthy! This wine just kept going unfolding layers of complexity. If you could find and afford it, this will be a showcase wine for your cellar. Amazing!

Gesellmann Pinot Noir, Austria 2003 $40Cdn

I found this wine at the end of its drinking window unfortunately. The aromatics were however quite lively and interesting, but the fruit was clearly fading with age. Earthy, mineral notes predominantly with very soft tannins and a medium body. I’ve tried a Blaufrankisch (red) from this producer and it too had an interesting character style. No doubt a terroir influenced wine, and an old world, reputable producer.

De Martino Single Vineyard El Leon Carignan, Maule Valley, Chile 2007 $51Cdn

Thank you Rory for this very interesting submission to the tasting! An organic producer with a dry-farmed, 60 year old vines carignan with small quantities of carmenere and malbec. Vivid acidity with juicy black cherry notes and toasty oak. Definitely a specialty wine from Chile who are not known for its carignan. Probably not for your average consumer, but if you’re curious…!

Viader Syrah, Napa Valley, USA 2001 $115USD

Thank you Sean M. for this iconic addition, a real treat even at the end of its drinking window. Depth and complexity were this wines best attributes. Alluring nose featuring earth, spice, dark chocolate and wood. Dark, brooding red and black fruit with well integrated oak on the palate. In its prime, this would have been a mind blowing wine. Still very memorable and recommendable if the price is right, just don’t leave it in your cellar for too long! 5-8 years max.

RedHead Studios Whip Hand Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, Australia 2007 $?

Cheers to Sean M. again for this iconic entry from cultish producer RedHead Studios of Australia. Being the last wine of the tasting, our tastebuds were a bit tired. This wine smacked them around, wrangled them up and lassoed them with tight tannins and blockbuster bold fruit. Not a wine for the feint of heart and probably worth cellaring for at least 3 more years to balance things out. Very cool to try this unusual Australian cabernet with small dashes of petit verdot and touriga nacional. Patience will reward if you cellar it!

Tenuta di Trinoro, 2007 Le Cupole

Tenuta di Trinoro 2007 Le Cupole 08/02/2012

Geography: Tuscany, Italy

40% Caberent Franc, 30% Merlot, 22% Caberent Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot..The 2007 is a stunning example of Tuscan red. Rich ruby in the glass this seamless blend is exactly what you want when buying this style of wine. I found the Le Cupole highly aromatic with hints of spice and a strong presence of dark fruits and fig. On the palate it is very lively. Not as intense with black fruits as the nose would suggest however the acidic backbone keeps you interested. Powdery tannins and a long finsh round this wine out beautifully. A few more years in the cellar may see this wine evolve more however you wouldn’t want to wait to long. Enjoy now

Why should I drink this wine: The 2007 Le Cupole is superb. Have a sip and good luck stopping at a glass. If you are out to impress then go no further. Well worth the CA$50

Men of Terroir

Demystifying Terroir and Sharing the Stories Behind the Grape

Category Archives: Tasting Notes