Always time for Gruner!

What’s the best way to learn all about a grape? Why not invite your friends over and tell them each to bring one wine of that varietal. I have been hearing about Gruner’s popularity these days and felt it was high time that I tried them for myself. The premise was simple: 4 friends, 4 Gruners, dissect.

The first wine that came out of the woodworks was the 2010 Laurenz V Friendly Gruner Veltliner. This is the perfect starting point for a Gruner rookie! Light gold in colour with a rich fruit nose reminiscent of a ripe Riesling. The wine opened up in the glass and mandarin became the dominant flavour on the nose. The wine had strong acidity, a round mouth feel, ripe lemon and lime flavours, with a stony, mineral, light spice finish. The wine tasted like an alcohol soaked mandarin. While it was originally not served cold enough, the wine did open up to show the most fruit forward expression of Gruner on the night.

The second wine was the only entry of the night not from Austria, this being the 2010 Forrest Doctors Gruner Veltliner. This offering from New Zealand was a pale lemon colour with a lime sorbet nose with a quick whiff of petrol that quickly dissipated. On the pallet this wine was far more mineral, had the highest acidity of the bunch with sharp citrus flavours and a white pepper finish. The memory of this wine lasted a bit longer than the first and the sharp citrus flavours were balanced with a noticeable sweetness; this wine had the highest residual sugar of the group (8.7g/l). Cool to see this grape from another region that is just started to explore with Gruner.

The third wine was the 2010 Domaene Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner. Rich gold in the glass with a noticeable peach and ripe apple nose, this wine was the most textured, think oily mouth, of the group with orange and peach flavours topped off with the familiar white pepper. There was a light floral component to this wine. This was the only wine of the bunch that I had tasted before and I felt that while it had the simplest fruit profile, there was a richness to it that makes it a beautiful wine.

Lastly, we dove into the 2007 Loimer Gruner Veltliner. This wine was the most expensive of the group and definitely delivered on it’s expectations. It was light gold in colour with an intense caramelized green apple nose underlain with rubber. There was some residual sugar, but it was beautifully balanced with high acidity and a peach, mango sorbet pallet. The finish had pepper that was white-borderline-black pepper – grey pepper as I have dubbed it! The depth of flavour was the defining factor for this wine. The best comment was that this wine knows exactly what it is and gives us exactly that.

After our mouths were tingling from all the whites, we do what every Austrian apparently does, turn straight to the only Austrian red we can easily find in this market, Zweigelt. The 2009 Domaene Gobelsburg Zweigelt was a medium ruby colour and showing a meaty, coffee, wet lanolin nose with a hit of black pepper. The pallet showed marginal tannins on a medium body, light red fruit, and a sharp finish. I felt like I was drinking bitter coffee out of a tin cup. We decided we would enjoy this wine with a cigar and let the sun set behind the swirls of our smoke.

Our goal of finding a way to define Gruner Veltliner as a grape was enjoyable. Gruner did prove itself worthy to be drunk at my table! The richness, ripe flavours, a shake of white pepper, and high but balanced acidity defines this grape for me. I can see why so many people feel like this is the perfect wine to pair with spicy Asian cuisine or sushi. It would be an excellent compliment to a white fish or light pork dish as well. Next time you are in the mood for a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc with a twist, I urge you to turn towards Gruner!

Australian Regional Tasting

Men of Terroir was on hand once again for the Taste of Australia tasting on May 11, 2012 at the Harrison Art Galleries in Yaletown. The art gallery was set up to showcase the different regional diversity of the wineries. This led to a little bit of confusion for certain wineries that are spread out between different areas, but overall it was a well-organized event and we thought it was the perfect way to start the weekend!

Our tasting experience started off with a bang as we began in the McLaren Vale with Wirra Wirra Wines. The Dead Ringer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon was a huge, powerful wine, black olives and dark fruit underlain with classic McLaren Vale minty notes. We had to have a nondescript Pinot Grigio just to cleanse our palate for the next wines!

The next standout was in the Barossa Valley region when we tried the Langmeil Valley Floor Shiraz. A perennial favourite, the 2009 did not cease to impress. This is classic Barossa Valley fruit with an earthy edge. One of the only other wines that could live up to this is the Barossa Valley Estates 2005 Black Pepper Shiraz. We felt sorry for the next couple of wines as the Black Pepper seemed to be selfishly hogging all our taste buds.

When we could finally taste again, the Coonawarra stepped up to the plate. Both Bill Hardy and Ian Hollick were standing at a table together arguing about Aussie Rules Football as only two Aussies can. Good thing we managed to dance around the issue about our favourite teams by discussing Canadian border issues with Ian. The 2008 Hollick Ravenswood Cabernet Sauvignon may have taken a while to get into the country, but it sure didn’t last that long in our glass! The Majella 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon was another Coonawarra standout, a bit richer on the palate than the Ravenswood and drinking perfectly now.

One Pinot Noir stood heads and shoulders above all the rest. That was the 2006 offering from Yabby Lake Vineyards in the Mornington Peninsula. Talk about an intense Pinot! It had enough grip to it that one of us double-checked to make sure that we were not being had and that it truly was a Pinot Noir we were drinking. Loved it!

It wasn’t all teeth staining reds however. The Tahbilk 2010 Marsanne from the Ngambie Lakes region of Victoria impressed. The rich, textured mouth feel and the healthy acidity was screaming for food. This is the perfect wine for Vancouver’s West Coast Asian inspired cuisines. Over in Margaret River it was the region’s original winery, Vasse Felix, that left us smiling with their 2009 Heytesbury Chardonnay. This wine showcased the perfect balance between oak and acidity that Margaret River does so well.

Small Vineyards, Something Worth Watching #WW

The MOT were lucky enough to recently get a first hand look at the small vineyards portfolio and also a little more about what makes the company tick. One of the founders, Tom Kelley, explained that the company came about because he and a few friends loved getting lost in the vineyards of Italy so much, that they decided to try and make a business out of it; however, listening to him talk about it, its hard not to notice the passion and excitement he has for authentic wine, especially Italian wine. Tom made a point of saying that their aim is to help preserve to old world of wine and its ways, hence, SMALL VINEYARDS.

Small vineyards is all about exactly that, wines produced from small vineyards. Each producer they import, must be in the smallest 10% of their given region, pick their grapes by hand, and use sustainable growing techniques. All of this comes through when tasting the wines. The quality and technique are unmistakable.

Here are some of their wines that we tasted. All wines were tasted with food as is intended by the winemaker.

N.V Trevisiol Prosecco Extra Dry

100% Prosseco

Light floral and fruity aromas are the hall-mark of the dry prosecco. A touch of honeysuckle on the palate accompanied with the obvious minerality make this one of my favourite Proseccos . This can be paired with a variety of foods however I think some simple prawns would suit perfectly.

2009 Giuseppe Lonardi Valpolicella Classico D.O.C

75% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 5% Molinara

This has all the classical notes of a traditional Valpolicella. Cherry spice, tobacco nose with a leathery, dusty palate. A little bitter on the finish. Great for most pastas.

2010 Fattoria Bibbiani Poggio Vignoso Chianti D.O.C.G

85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Malvasia Nera

The Poggio Vignoso Chinati is the ultimate food wine. This is once again a very traditional style with loads of dried cherry, spice and some herbal notes. I enjoyed my glass with some blue cheese. Yep!!

2009 La Quercia Montepulciano D.O.C

100% Montepulciano

This 100% organic beauty is a real star of the line up. Smoky notes overlay dark fruit and spice. The La Quericia Montepluciano is a good dose of restrained power. Any grilled meats would pair well with this lush Montepulciano.

2010 Perazzeta Sara Rosso Toscano I.G.T

The Sara Rosso Toscano is the little sister of the bigger Rita. Like the Rita, the Sara is mainly Sangiovese with just 10% Ciliegiolo . Very powerful and flavourful with layered ripe dark fruits and spicy earth tones. Crisp acidity rounds this tuscan out beautifully.

2008 Palama Arcangelo Primitivo

100% Primitivo

A super low-yield Primitivo, the Palama Arcangelo is a classical edition. All of the salty, gamey notes are there along with ripe fruit and an olive finish. Concrete fermentation ensures the fruit is the star of this wine.

2007 Giuseppe Lonardi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C.

75% Corvina, 20% Molinara, 5% Rondinella

WOW!! A powerhouse. This is monster is everything you want from an Amarone and more. Rich, lush fruit is the backbone of this intense, complex wine. Truffle, tobacco. leather, chocolate fill the glass and that is only the beginning. Still in its infancy, words do not do this one justice.

The Lifford Grand Tasting

Seems to be wine tasting season! Yesterday MOT attended the Lifford Grand Tasting hosted by the Lifford Wine Agency held at the beautiful Stanley Park Pavilion. 6 countries, over 20 wineries, and a collection of liqueurs and spirits were available for tasting.

Right off the bad, MOT was put into the wine tasting spirit with the perfectly weighted Ca’Del Bosco Cuvee Prestige Brut Franciacorta. This sparkling has just the right balance of body and citrus flavours to liven the palate and get us ready for the whites. The selection of whites was on the minimal side, but the favourite today was a stellar value wine, the 2010 Arboleda Chardonnay from Chile.

Moving onto the reds, the country that showed the best overall was Italy. The Rocca Delle Macie and Tenuta Il Poggione wines were excellent throughout their entire lineups, but it was the unheralded DOCG of Gattinara that captured our attention today. Travaglini is a small winery that makes 100% Nebbiolo wines that are slightly more delicate than wines from the neighbouring Barolo, but these wines still pack a punch. The 2001 Gattinara Riserva was so light in the glass that it was almost inconceivable 5 minutes later that we still tasted the finish. The other wine that never stopped was the 2008 Serpico from Mitolo. A Cabernet Sauvignon from McLaren Vale that is produced in a style reminiscent to Amarone, using dried grapes to create a concentrated wine with layers of depth.

After we exhausted our wine palates, we grazed and stared down the whiskeys. Always a fan of the peaty Islay offerings, we were shocked when Bowmore said we had to have their 12 yr old with an oyster. We obliged and were amazed at how well the saltiness of the oyster danced alongside the smoky peaty offering from the whiskey. Nothing could prepare us for the joy of the Bowmore 15 yr old Darkest though. Caramelized peat is the best way to express the flavour profile. As it slowly dissipated on an extremely smooth finish we walked out the door with a smile on our face.

Sonoma Spotlight Blind Pinot Noir Tasting

Before the California Wine Fair in Vancouver on April 18, I was invited to take part in a Sonoma Spotlight blind tasting of 8 different Pinot Noirs. I have never done a blind tasting of this many wines in a similar category before and was blown away by how unique each of the wines ended up being. Every Pinot Noir, except for one, was from the 2009 vintage that was known being an outstanding vintage and having an intensity of colour in the grapes.

All wines were tasted blind before the big reveal and discussion afterwards. We were also given an in depth description of the Sonoma region beforehand, fuelling my already burning desire to visit this wonderful part of the wine world!

I have included all my notes of the wines below, in the order the tasting occurred. I attempted to highlight the distinct differences between each of these high quality wines. Hope you get as much out of it as I did!

1. Flowers Vineyard and Winery 2009 Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir

Appearance: Med – intensity, ruby red
Nose: Med intensity, cranberries, cherries, bit of smoke, cinnamon, tea, cedar
Palate: Tangy acidity, sweet fruit, licorice but underlain with earth, light body, low tannin
Notes: subtleness, elegance and finesse, ethereal, food friendly

2. Joseph Swan Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir, Saralee’s Vineyard

Appearance: Med – intensity, ruby red
Nose: Med intensity, strawberries and cherries, jammy, floral, orange peel
Palate: Med smooth acidity, med + alcohol, med – tannin, full of strawberries, savoury spice, and vanilla
Notes: Drinking right now

3. Freeman Winery 2009 Pinot Noir, Keefer Ranch Vineyard

Appearance: Med to Med + intensity, ruby red
Nose: Med + intensity, strawberries, tangerine, ginger, clove, sarsaparilla
Palate: Med acidity, tart, linear taste, low tannin, orange, red fruit
Notes: Nose opened up to smell just like Coca Cola! Palate doesn’t live up to the nose

4. Patz & Hall 2009 Pinot Noir, Chenoweth Ranch Vineyard

Appearance: Deep purple
Nose: Med + intensity, dark rich cherry, coffee, molasses, faint dark chocolate, vanilla
Palate: Med + sharp acidity, med tannin, med body, chocolate, rich, very balanced with tart red fruit, cherry, strong finish
Notes: Dark and different, almost not Pinot Noir, good and interesting

5. Sequana 2009 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir

Appearance: Med + intensity, ruby red
Nose: Pronounced, dark, soy, barnyard, burnt toast, strong chocolate/coffee
Palate: Med + acidity, med – tannin, med body, smooth cherry, black pepper, earthy, chocolate, mocha, some mint, higher alcohol
Notes: Different style from others, in-between Burgundy and California, mid palate freshness, wine in awkward teenage stage!

6. Kosta Browne 2009 Gap’s Crown Pinot Noir

Appearance: Deep ruby red to purple rim
Nose: Med + intensity, cranberry, orange peel, cranberry/raspberry jam, Christmas spices
Palate: High acid, med + body, med – tannin, similar to nose but more vanilla
Notes: Smooth and richer than others, good

7. Hartford Court 2009 Land’s Edge Pinot Noir

Appearance: Med + intensity, ruby red, pronounced legs
Nose: Med intensity, more floral than others, earth, all spice, reserved nose
Palate: High acid, med body, med – tannin, truffle, mushrooms, rich tart cherry, slightly confectionary
Notes: Didn’t stand out for me, nice but nothing grabbing me

8. Siduri Wines 2010 Pinot Noir, Keefer Ranch Vineyard

Appearance: Deep ruby red, pronounced legs
Nose: Med intensity, red fruit with mix of spice and earth, prune, soy, floral
Palate: Med + acid, med + body, med tannin, sweet rich red fruit, fullest body, light spice, barnyard
Notes: Smells most like Pinot out of lineup for me, wine to drink by itself, very good

After we finished I leisurely wandered in a daze around the California Wine Fair, tasting wines here and there, but not fully able to shake my thoughts of the amazing Pinot Noir tasting that occurred only minutes before. While my palate and wallet are having a domestic dispute about purchasing some of these great Sonoma Pinot Noirs, my mind is smartly planning my trip down to explore the distinct sub regions in more depth.

New Zealand Wine Fair, Vancouver

The MOT were on the ground for the annual New Zealand Wine Fair in Vancouver and were not disappointed. 26 producers were on hand to display their wines and as always there were a few standouts.

The usual strong varietals, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, were on show but a few others are starting to gain ground. Most obvious to us was the improvements made with Pinot Gris. Aromatic, balanced and complex Gris were not in short supply. The pick of them being the effort from Akarua. There was obviously a plethora of quality sauvignon blancs to taste however midway through the tasting and after using up my third sweat band to ward off the glistening acidity on my forehead, a decision was made to only selectively try the SB’s as the acid was getting the better of us. The perennial favourite Cloudy Bay was once again outstanding. In the pinot noir corner the overall quality was impressive as was the array of styles. The Bannockburn from Akarua was the pinot of the tasting for us however the Ma Maison Pinot Noir also showed very well.

In terms of overall quality, Elephant Hill was fantastic across the board. The Viognier, Pinot Noir and Syrah all showed extremely well and the MOT were not afraid to give Elephant Hill the hurry up with their latest shipment with an encouraging TWEET. The Syrah was the wine of the tasting for some of us. Whilst still being very young (2011) it displayed delicious fruit with loads of pepper.

Other standout wines included the Rifleman’s Chardonnay from Sacred Hill with its stunning balance and the low yield Hunting Hill Chardonnay from Kumeu River who were very solid across the board. Definitely a producer to watch for quality Chard in the future. (Pictured right)

The biggest surprise was the Sauvignon Blanc Sticky from Marisco Vineyards. Great acidity balanced out a mouthful of sweet fruits and fig. Very long…… (Pictured right)

Wine was not the only feature of the well organized tasting as there was some beautiful food to accompany the wine. A great selection of cheeses were available along with sliders and some delectable lamb cutlets. One of the MOT crew could be seen devouring what seemed to be an entire tray of the cutlets. Being an Aussie myself, I was very excited to also find some ANZAC cookies. Happy days..

2006 BenMarco Expresivo

Terroir: Mendoza, Argentina

60% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Syrah, 10% Tannat

The Technical: Last night’s wine was the 2006 BenMarco Expresivo that has been sitting in my cellar for a couple of years. This wine, with an inky ruby red colour, began with a little barnyard funk on the nose that blew away quickly to reveal a rich nose full or plum, black pepper, oregano, mushrooms, and oak. The big body had silky tannins softened by age that begins with Malbec flavours and leads to a Cabernet Sauvignon finish. Juicy blackberries, plums, and tobacco box complement the lively palate. As an ’06 it surprised me how fresh this wine still is. Definitely still has 2-3 years more life on it.

Why You Should Drink This Wine: Drink this wine if you are tired of drinking straight Malbecs. The Cab Sauv, Syrah, Petit Verdot, and Tannat in the Expressivo pairs well with the Malbec adding structure, depth, and different flavor components.

Rated 92 points Wine Spectator

March Wine Reviews

I was fortunate enough to attend a very special wine tasting in March that showcased some spectacular wines from around the world. The experience left me with a heightened sense of appreciation for great wines.

We began with a beautiful non-vintage champagne from the house of Henriot. Classic entry with yeasty, bready nose and explosive, creamy, citrus burst on the palate with an exceptionally fine mousse. Great quality, a long multi-layered finish, and a beautiful example of what champagne should be. About the $70.00 mark.

Next in the lineup came a stunning Cabernet from Napa Valley, the 2007 Altamura. From the Wooden Valley area just north of Napa, the over 60 different types of soil here help to loan varying complexities to the wine. It is also a region that is on average 10 degrees cooler than Napa. The Altamura was pure heaven with bold black fruit & well integrated oak spice coupled with refined yet generous tannin levels and gorgeous length. This could easily keep another 10+ years but temptation to drink now is daunting! 96 pts Wine Spectator. About $145.00.

From Catena Zapata was the ’05 Malbec sourced from the high altitude Nicasia Vineyard in Argentina. In terms of value for money, this was one of the best in show. This wine had an alluring dried herbs, espresso and licorice nose with predominantly dark fruit and herb characteristics on the palate. A well balanced, full bodied whopper of a wine that would be best in 5 years but could be consumed with food now. Robert Parker gave this 96 pts. Approximately $90.00.

I was warned about the 2005 Paul Hobbes Shiraz/Viognier from Oz being MASSIVE before this tasting and it didn’t disappoint. Holy patootie, this was a wild one! From very old vines (earliest 1908) and small quantities (300 cases), the nose reeked of sweet, black, reduced fruit and licorice with tobacco leaves. The robust tannins, high alcohol (16.1%) and uber-concentrated fruit overshadowed the delicate viognier giving a supercharged feel to the wine, but nonetheless high quality. This will integrate slightly with time, but the viognier will drop off completely. 97 pts Robert Parker. $185.00.

Next came the 2001 Chateau de Beaucastel, an iconic red from France that I’ve tried before. I was looking forward to comparing the ’01 and the ’03 as the 2003 was fantastic when I tried it over 5 years ago. Sadly, as Spirit of the West claim, it needed “Home for a Rest”. The raisinated fruit and medicinal nuances left us feeling that it could be in a “dumb” state and that leaving it for a few years could bring it back to life like a good zombie flick. Beaucastel wines can age a very long time, so leave it in its coma for now. Interestingly, this producer uses all 13 allowable grape varietals in this Chateau-neuf-du-pape, and steams the grapes before pressing to allow for more free-run juice without any astringency. About $135.00. Parker rated it 96 pts.

This great value red from Quinta Vale Do Meao was one of the best surprises of the night. Having just entered its drinking window, this intensely extracted, inky, youngster had all the structure to grow into a leading actor role in 10+ years. High acidity, big tannins, ripe black fruit and earthy spices make this a winner and prime example of how Portuguese table wines can deliver the goods. Port lovers would really enjoy the similarities here, but with less alcohol and sweetness. 95 pts Wine Spectator. Just over $110.00.

From the single vineyard Pajana comes a 2004 Barolo by Italian producer Domenico Clerico. All the classic notes of Barolo including roses, tar, and an earthy nose along with leather, dried herbs, and tar on the palate. Very high tannin levels and acidity will no doubt step down from their pedestal over time. The wine seemed very tight probably due to its young age, however you could tell that this was a serious effort and a quality Barolo just waiting to shine. Easily another 10 years, possibly 20 would be perfect. 95 pts Wine Spectator. Around $160.00.

Wow! For those that like a wine of MAMMOTH proportions, I highly recommend this stunning example of Spanish dominance from producer Termes. The ’03 Termanthia begins with a distinctly Old World nose of cigar, tobacco leaves, dried spices and rich, dark fruit that makes your head swoon! On the palate, bracing intensity from all angles as killer tannins collide with whopping acidity and ultra-extracted fruit. The end result is pure magic on your tongue as you gallop away in your chariot to Pleasuretown. Not for cheapies at $260.00 a pop, but for serious wine lovers who want a real experience. My favorite wine of the event, and a placement in my all-time Top 10. Robert Parker thought highly of it too and gave it a 96+ pt rating.

Brunch at Hentley Farm

I was lucky enough to recently spend a few hours for brunch at Hentley Farm in the Barossa Valley. Hentley Farm sits along side Greenock creek and is a relative newcomer in terms of the Barossa Valley. By now, everyone in Adelaide knows how good the wines produced at Hentley Farm are but the food is just has good. Local boy and chef Lachlan Colwill (The Manse) has done an outstanding job.

We were ushered into an old shearing shed and served a glass of sparkling with apple juice and pear liqueur (very tasty). The revamped shearing shed is decked out with a new kitchen and all the trimmings however it still holds some of its heritage and you can still find the shearers count scraped into the wall if you look hard enough. A degustation menu was served and it was fantastic to see and taste their wines as they were intended. Pork belly with a glass of their shiraz was a standout for me. I was also introduced to Hentley Farms ‘STICKY’ for the first time and was impressed. This brunch was sold out.

Whilst it is not a new idea for a Barossa Valley winery to offer a menu for special functions of the occasional dinner, it is now becoming common place for wineries to offer lunches and dinner every weekend and Hentley Farm is about to join those ranks. I was very impressed with the overall experience as were my friends and family.

Check their website www.hentleyfarm.com.au for details about special lunches or dinners, phone (+618) 8562 8427 or email cellardoor@hentleyfarm.com.au.

1986 Chateau Latour, Grand Vin, Pauillac

4/3/2012

Terroir: Pauillac, Bordeaux

75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 1% Petite Verdot

Technical: This was more of an experience than a tasting. Having never had this wine before I was surprised by its restrained nature. The nose was full of leather and earthy tones but that was only the beginning. It continued to change in the decanter. Hints of herb and were pepper always present. The first sip is initially subdued on this medium bodied red. Cassis and dry herb dominated however after a few hours in the decanter concentrated tastes of earthiness, tobacco, leather, and even a hint of walnut came through. Complexity and length shone. The tannins have started to drop away and I was happy with my decision to drink it now.

Having heard a lot about powerful Latour’s in the past I can comfortably say this is not one of those. However its was thoroughly enjoyable.

Why should I drink this wine? As I said earlier, drinking a Chateau Latour, Grand Vin is an experience. When you pull the cork, you are pulling the cork on hundreds of years of history and experience. There is nothing around quite like a first growth, grand cru bordeaux. The price is a little high so maybe share it with a few other oenophiles.

The Day I Met Sparky Marquis

Yesterday I met Sparky Marquis. For those still wondering whom I am talking about, he is the owner of Molly Dooker wines. And what a character he is! I was excited to be a part of a sit down tasting where he took us through 8 of the 10 wines that the iconic McLaren Vale winery produces. Sparky’s true Aussie flair came out almost immediately when hetold us he wasn’t going to talk us through the wines since we probably knew more than he did about wine anyways. He said there are only 2 drops that he drinks; Molly Dooker wines and Jack Daniels and since they don’t serve Molly Dooker wines on the Air New Zealand flight back to Australia he was on in a couple of hours, he wanted to enjoy the wines with us!

Turns out that Molly Dooker is an Australian term for left-handers. Sparky and his wife, Sarah, and coincidentally, over 50% of the staff at his winery are left-handed; he claims it is not a questions on the interview sheets! Started in 1995, his wines have been featured in Wine Spectator’s Top 10 list twice, have received more 94 points and above from Robert Parker than any other producer, and Sparky and Sarah were voted Australian winemaker of the year in 1999. Of the 8 wines we tried today the lowest rating was an 88 and the highest a modest 97+.

Other than the obvious high quality of his wines, two things struck me after listening toSparky Marquis talk for an hour. One is that he is true pioneer that is not afraid to

push the barriers to keep creating a better quality product. After he was repeatedly told that the most concentrated grapes could only come from dry grown, low yielding, old vine vineyards, he turned it into a personal mission to discover what it is that gives a concentrated taste and how to emulate that in new vines. This led to a creation of the (now trademarked) Marquis Vineyard Watering Program that allows the vines to get the intensity and sugars they need to create these big, bold wines that he loves. It also led to a term he calls fruit weight which he explains as how far back on the tongue the velvet glove of flavor reaches before the tingling structure sets in. Sounds complex but when you taste his wines you understand exactly what he is talking about and how it gives that WOW factor he is after.

The other point that struck me is how ingenious their marketing is. After his wife shut down the original commissioned label design, Sarah took the task to herself to create the labels now on the bottles. From caricatures of Sparky and Sarah dancing to a boxer with two left hands, the labels are fun, creative, and tell a story of their life and wine-growing career. The attention to detail even goes as far as forcing a consumer to pick up the bottle to read the sideways wine details since it was shown in studies that a consumer is more likely to buy a bottle if they have 2 hands on it. And then what better marketing than to send the fast-talking, excitable Sparky Marquis on the road to pour their wines!

Now to the wines themselves. Sparky doesn’t waste time with small wines. All of the wines had at least 15% alcohol, but unlike most high alcohol producers, Molly Dooker wines have the concentrated fruit and healthy acidity to back it up. The line

up was: The Maitre D’, Two Left Feet, The Boxer, Blue Eyed Boy, Gigglepot, Enchanted Path, Carnival of Love, and the Velvet Glove (all 2009 except the 2010 Boxer). The Velvet Glove has the ominous distinction of being “the wine” that was crushed by a forklift accident last year on an Australian dock. With one quick mechanical failure, 1/3 of the production of the best wine that Molly Dooker offers, a $250 wine, was destroyed instantly. In true Aussie fashion, Sparky rolled with the punches and said that the worst part about the incident is that his personal allocation of those wines dropped right off! This wine is beautiful, a perfect balance between a delicate palate and strong flavours.

As we our red stained lips had taken our last sips, Sparky was asked how long his wines age. He replied by saying “As long as it takes me to find a corkscrew!” I like a winemaker that truly believes in the quality of his wines, as long as he leaves some for us to be able to enjoy!

Castello Di Bossi 2007 Chianti Classico

Terroir: Chianti Classico from the Tuscany region of Italy

The Technical: This wine’s appearance shows a ruby red core turning to garnet towards the rim. The intense nose is full of red liquorice, leather, cigar box, dark cherry, and light floral notes. On the dry palate, there is a healthy dose of acidity to back up the medium tannins. The body has dried fruits, sweet spices like vanilla, cocoa, and leather. There is the traditional bitterness of Chianti but it is not as strong as in some. This is a very good quality Chianti Classico.

Why Should You Drink This Wine: This wine is the perfect compliment to a tomato based pasta dish or a veal marsala dish. If you are used to drinking regular Chianti and want to explore more, try this wine from the Chianti Classico region that truly is a step up. 2007 is the best year that Chianti has had in the 00′s so grab whatever you can see before it is too late!

Men of Terroir

Demystifying Terroir and Sharing the Stories Behind the Grape

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