Men of Terroir

Demystifying Terroir and Sharing the Stories Behind the Grape

Apply here payday loans 100% secure

Category Archives: Wine Regions

Explore a New Wine Region: Martinborough

Introduction

The Martinborough wine region is situated around the town of Martinborough and is only an hour north of Wellington making it a popular weekend destination in the summer months.  I had heard varied review on this region before I went and I am pleased to say that I like it here!  This is pinot noir country and unlike the delicate pinots of Central Otago, Martinborough is making big, intense, acidic, earthy pinots, just the way I like them.  The oldest vines in the region are almost 30 years old and a small town center has sprung up full of small cafes and restaurants.  Because of how close the wineries are to the town center, a popular tourist activity is to hire bikes and ride from winery to winery because of their close proximity.  This tends to be a little annoying for drivers who always have to be on the lookout for a swerving bike, but the bikers seemed to be having a blast!

 

History

John Martin founded the town of Martinborough in 1879.  As maybe a tribute to his Great British roots, the town was laid out in the shape of a Union Jack and even today an ariel view will show this unique road pattern.   The region suffered through the temperance movement in 1908 when it was one of the first regions to tear out vines in order to stop the consumption of alcohol.  It wasn’t until a study in 1979 that showed direct climactic similarities to Burgundy that people started to look at Martinborough for wine again.  In 1980, four wineries re-ignited the industry: Ata Rangi, Dry River, Chifney, and Martinborough Vineyards.  This small region blossomed from there and family ties to the land are very evident.

Nowadays, Martinborough only accounts for 2.6% of total New Zealand plantings and only 1.6% of the volume; however, despite it’s small size, this is a region that is winning international awards left and right and making a big name for itself.  It was also the first region in New Zealand to protect its identity through the creation of an appellation system (Geographical Indication).

 

Geography/Terroir

40 degrees south | North Island | 1 hr North of Wellington

Martinborough is located in the Wairarapa growing region that includes the neighbouring Masterton and Gladstone.  Martinborough is by large the most premium of these three growing regions and that claim is in the unique balance of climate and soil of the Martinborough.

The soil structure here varies, but the best growing location for vines is on the 25 meter deep free draining alluvial river gravels that were exposed by the Ruamahanga River.  Surrounding this soil, the area stretches out into more of a clay loam base.  The Martinborough region receives very little rainfall due to the Rimutaka and Tararua Ranges that flank the area and at night the temperatures drop to allow the slow maturation of that characteristic New Zealand acidity.  In fact some wines, especially the whites, border on too much acidity, but when the right balance is met the results are spectacular!

 

Major Grape Varietals Planted

Red:  Pinot Noir

White:  Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Aromatics

 

Major Producer/Iconic Wines

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir
Martinborough Vineyards pinot Noir
Dry River Riesling Craighall Botrytis
Craggy Range Te Muna Road Pinot Noir
Palliser Sauvignon Blanc

 

Conclusion

When you think of Martinborough, think small region, boutique producers, Burgundian conditions, and an up and coming reputation in the wine world.  These wines are expressive of their unique terroir and packed with heaps of flavour.  The quote below sums up my experiences with Martinborough wines:

“If our Pinot Noir is ever going to make a genuine impact on the world wine stage, it is likely to be wines from Martinborough that will make the genuine breakthrough.”

John Hawkesby – World Magazine, December 2009

 

References

http://www.winesfrommartinborough.com/

http://www.martinborough-vineyard.co.nz/#

http://www.martinboroughnz.com/

 

Back to New Zealand Wine

 

Ontario

Introduction

The biggest region for wine production in Canada is Ontario, the second largest province. With diverse landscapes, fertile soils, and warm summer temperatures, Ontario boasts prime growing areas comparable to Bordeaux or northern California in terms of latitude. As with BC, Ontario uses the VQA (Vintners Quality Alliance) designation to symbolize quality control. VQA wines from Ontario have a solid reputation for being highly terroir influenced and the many regions and sub-regions offer a wide array of subtle differences. In all, there are some 15,000 acres of vines planted among 4 primary growing regions named Lake Erie North Shore, Niagara Peninsula, Pelee Island, and Prince Edward County. 10 sub-appellations (Beamsville Bench, Creek Shores, Four Mile Creek, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Lakeshore, Niagara River, Short Hills Bench, St. David’s Bench, Twenty Mile Bench, and Vinemount Ridge) and 2 regional sub-appellations (Niagara Escarpment and Niagara-on-the-Lake) round out the terroir expressive domain.

History

Ontario’s quality wine production began around 1811 from a German-born producer Johann Schiller. With 400 acres of vines in the Niagara area and skills acquired from working in the Rhine region of Germany, Schiller and his sons crafted sought after wines. It wasn’t until 1871 that commercial wine production in Ontario began with VinVilla, founded by Thaddeus Smith, opening its doors on Pelee Island. What became Pelee Island Wine & Vineyards Co. supplied markets in Canada and the eastern USA with the help from Major Joshua S. Hamilton, a grocery and liquor business owner. Today, there are more than 130 wineries in Ontario producing roughly 80% of total Canadian wine volume. Governed by VQA Ontario, the Ontario wine industry generated $533 million in retail sales (2010) and is the juggernaut of Canadian wine production. Several institutes provide education in Ontario including the Independent Wine Education Guild, the Ontario Wine Education Centre, and Niagara College Teaching Winery to name a few.

Geography/Terroir 

Lake Erie North Shore – This region is one of the most southernly in Canada and is made up of long, gentle slopes with an average elevation of 185m or 607 feet. The most prolific vineyards in this area stretch from Amherstburg to Leamington including areas near the town of Blenheim. Soil is composed of sandy loam, clay and gravely loam with some shale limestone bedrock and the roughly 400 acre area receives plenty of sun exposure with its southerly facing position. At close to 42 degrees North Latitude, Lake Erie North Shore would be comparable to Navarra (Spain) and Abruzzi (Italy) for grape growing climate. Harvest time here is generally earlier than other parts of Ontario and a long growing season and high number of heat units are enjoyed. Lake Erie is the shallowest of the Great Lakes thus giving the surrounding vineyards the added benefits of a more moderated temperature, although it freezes over in winter.

Niagara Peninsula – Is the largest viticultural area in Ontario with over 13,000 acres of vines. Located between 41 and 44 North Latitude, it could be compared to other growing regions such as Provence (France), Chianti Classico (Italy), or Rioja (Spain). It too reaps the climatic reward of being sandwiched between Lake Ontario to the north and Lake Erie to the south. In particular, offshore breezes help to prevent frost in spring and fall as well as keeping mold from affecting late season crops. Lake Ontario helps to warm the surrounding area from the chills of winter by releasing heat into the air. The fertile soils created from ancient glaciers provide very diverse grape varietal growing ability. Considered a cool-climate appelation, the Niagara Peninsula can produce very complex and intense styles of wine compared to warmer-climate areas.

Pelee Island – Located approximately 20 kilometres offshore, the Pelee Island appellation is the southernmost Canadian region covering some 10,000 acres of which 500 contain vines. Sandy loam, clay and limestone exist in the soil sub-structure. Heat degree units are the highest here in the country at 1591 average. Pelee Island is equivalent to the Macon region of Burgundy (France) in terms of growing conditions at 41.5 degrees North Latitude. It is here that the aforementioned VinVilla, Canada’s first commercial winery, opened for business back in 1866. While there is certainly history attached to this part of Southern Ontario, the grape vines here are not as historically dated (replanted in 1980).

Prince Edward County – This region can be found just south of Belleville and west of Kingston and is a relative newcomer to the winemaking scene. The limestone bedrock and stony soil composition, ample drainage and moderating effects from Lake Ontario help to create special terroir for predominantly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir growth. At 44 degrees North Latitude, it is Ontario’s most northern appellation and enjoys cool climate conditions. The weather here averages around 22 degrees Celcius in summer with beneficial breeze coming across the Bay of Quinte.

Grape Varietals in Ontario

Whites – (Majority): Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Gewurztraminer

Reds – (Majority): Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Gamay Noir, Baco Noir, Cabernet Franc

Major Producers/Iconic Wines

Tawse – Pinot Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay
Flat Rock Cellars – Syrah, Pinot Noir
Chateau des Charmes – Late Harvest Riesling, Old Vines Riesling
Inniskillin – Vidal Icewine
Thirty Bench – Riesling
Malivoire – Gamay Noir, Old Vines Foch
Vineland Estates – Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
Wayne Gretzky – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon
Kacaba – Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Meritage

Conclusion

Ontario provides the average wine lover with a full spectrum of fantastic, cool climate style wines. From the iconic award winning icewines to the unique hybridized varietals, each wine producer strives to reveal the hidden (and not-so-secretive anymore!) gems that come from this part of the world. As a BC native, I have noticed a few names on the store shelves, but ideally would love to see more variety from Ontario displayed here. Perhaps a cross-country wine road trip is in order?

References

Regional Maps

British Columbia

Introduction

Wines produced in BC are becoming a mainstay on the world stage, winning numerous awards and capturing attention in markets across Europe, Asia, and the USA. Our blog follows the guidelines of regional history, geography/terroir, grape varietals, main producers/iconic wines, regional maps, and reference links that will help you familiarize yourself with BC wine production and its unique characteristics. There are 4 primary regions that are key contributors to wine production in BC: Okanagan Valley, Similkameen Valley, Fraser Valley, and Vancouver Island/Gulf Islands.

History

In the beginning, BC wine production suffered as a result of unpopular local grape varietals and a lack of expert wine making skills. Father Charles Pandosy was one of the first growers in BC, producing grapes from the Oblate Mission near Kelowna in 1859. Commercial grape growing didn’t materialize until 1907 and things remained largely unchanged with the exception of prohibition until three monumental events in the late 1980′s. The North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), the inception of Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) and a major vine replanting program helped transform the BC wine industry. To help with a growing need for education, The Wine Research Centre at the University of British Columbia (founded in 1999 and open by 2002) followed by the Okanagan University College’s Oenology and Viticulture wine program have paved the way for future generations to promote the BC wine industry. The present day figures include close to 200 BC wineries with VQA wine sales in excess of $196 million.

Geography/Terroir

Okanagan Valley – This is the largest and most productive region in BC ranging approximately from Enderby in the north to Osoyoos in the south, a distance of 180kms. As an inland growing region, it experiences hot, dry summers, low humidity, and long hours of sunshine followed by cold winter months and frost. Average elevation is around 350m or 1150 feet with soils mostly comprised of glacial stone, fine sand, silt and clay in the north while sand and gravel dominate the southern areas. The region experiences over 2200 hours of yearly sunshine with the northern section receiving less than 16 inches of annual rainfall; the southern “desert” classified area only sees 6 inches or less of precipitation per year. Lake Okanagan provides water for irrigation in most vineyards and the gentle rolling slopes create ideal growing topography for grape vines.

Similkameen Valley – Located just west of the Okanagan Valley, the Similkameen region stretches some 100kms from Princeton to Osoyoos. Winters can be colder here with persistent winds and without a major body of water to regulate temperature; the summer months see more heat retained in the valley due to the high mountains and reflective rock surfaces. Average elevation is approximately 380m or 1300 feet, a much steeper terrain than the Okanagan so vineyards experience slightly different terroir here. Irrigation is sourced from the Similkameen River which runs through the Coast Mountain Range.

Fraser Valley – This region covers the 150kms from Hope to Vancouver and is considered a coastal growing region. The climate is more moderate here than in the interior with humid summers and wet winters, creating challenges for proper ripening of the grapes and the threat of mildew. The soil here is extremely fertile, predominantly silty and high in organic matter. The occasional rolling hills dot the otherwise flat landscape ranging from sea level to 39m (130ft) while irrigation comes largely by way of rainfall except in the months of July and August.

Vancouver Island/Gulf Islands – With vineyards on Salt Spring, Pender, Saturna, Quadra and Bowen Island among others, the Gulf Islands along with Vancouver Island sit offshore in the southwest corner of the province. Though most vineyards exist at lower altitudes, elevation ranges from sea level to a staggering 2195m or 7200 feet in the central zone of Vancouver Island. The Cowichan Valley vineyards of Vancouver Island experience a rain shadow effect from nearby mountains and have a long growing season. While the area receives excessive winter rainfall, irrigation is required for most vineyards in the summer months.

Grape Varietals in BC

Whites - (Majority): Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, (Minority): Kerner, Viognier, Siegerrebe, Sylvaner, Optima, Ortega, Vidal Blanc, Auxerrois, Chasselas, Chenin Blanc, Ehrenfelser, Muller Thurgau, Scheurebe, Cayuga, Bacchus, Muscat, Seyval Blanc, Schonburger and Semillon.

 Reds - (Majority): Merlot, Syrah or Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, (Minority): Gamay Noir, Marechal Foch, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Zweigelt, Baco Noir, Barbera, Chancellor, Dornfelder, Dunkelfelder, Lemberger, Pinot Meunier, and Pinotage.

Major Producers/Iconic Wines

(Prices approx and in $Cdn)

Mission Hill - Oculus (Bordeaux Blend red wine) $80
Inniskillin – Riesling Icewine $60
Jackson Triggs – Riesling Icewine $55
Osoyoos Larose – Le Grand Vin (Bordeaux Blend red wine) $45
Tantalus – Old Vines Riesling $30
Burrowing Owl – Cabernet Franc $35
Blue Mountain – Reserve Pinot Noir $40

Obviously, there are other great wines not on this list. These are some of my favorite selections from a few chosen producers (and I had to create a short list!).

Conclusion

The BC Wine Industry has exploded over the past 20 years. Government taxation accounts for seemingly high prices of BC wines in comparison to some countries. This will hopefully put pressure on producers to keep their wines competitively priced. With increased educational programs, better wine making practices, healthy competition inside and outside of BC and strong marketing campaigns, BC wines will carve out a welcome niche in the world wine scene.

References

Regional Maps

 

Return to Canada